Cultivation Notes, Phytoclimatic Areas
HOW TO GROW ROSES - PHYTO-CLIMATIC ZONES
Before planting the roses, the soil will have to be worked and then enriched with organic matter, such as manure or compost. Afterward, dig a hole that is twice the size of the pot, add soil for roses, and finally, wet it abundantly so that the earth comes close to the roots.
In the case of cultivation in pots, it is a good rule to pay attention to drainage, which must be efficient, otherwise, the rose will die.
The type of soil used will be the specific one for roses, easily available on the market.
Remember that planting roses in a place where they have already been grown will give bad results. This is caused by the fact that rose plants tire the soil a lot. It is, therefore, a good rule to replace the old soil with fresh earth if you have to plant the plants in the same place.
Pruning the rose or:
What is the use of pruning roses?
Here are some reasons:
Get more beautiful flowers and prolonged blooms, extend the plant's life and discipline the bush. There are various types of pruning.
Long pruning: about 5 eyes per branch, with which many but smaller flowers are obtained.
Short pruning: 2 or 3 eyes per branch with which we get less but more beautiful.
Summer pruning: used to plan and set the following flowering.
Winter pruning is much more important than the previous one, because it serves to regulate the growth and shape of the plant.
Long or short pruning also depends on the strength of the plant; a weak plant can be pruned more drastically to strengthen it, a strong one less, because, given its vigor, it will emit many suckers.
Roses are pruned when they are at rest, usually in winter, but it is necessary to evaluate the geographical areas where we operate and also the type of rose we have.
The first step is general cleaning, starting with the dry and damaged branches; the second consists in eliminating the branches that overlap and cross each other so as to give a harmonious shape to our rose. Winter pruning also allows you to eliminate dry branches damaged by the cold. With the summer pruning, the withered flowers are eliminated, and the rose is induced to form new flowers.
Ground cover roses and landscaping with minimal pruning. In practice, only the weak or damaged branches are removed. When the plant is a few years old, the oldest branches are shortened in order to renew the bush.
English roses can be pruned leaving a maximum of about 40 cm of branches, in order to make the bush tidy. Even damaged or weak branches are eliminated.
Botanical roses, these roses normally let themselves develop freely in order to appreciate their natural bearing. We will limit ourselves only to removing any damaged branches.
Perpetual hybrid roses, very vigorous roses that must be pruned in order not to have bare and woody areas at the base. Practically the old, thin, or damaged branches are eliminated, the branches that have already bloomed will be removed by shortening them, leaving branches about 30-40 cm long. This pruning is performed after flowering. Some branches then, in summer, will be bent to hinder the apical prominence so as to form a small arch to favor flowering on the entire branch.
Chinese roses are roses to be pruned very little given their slow development, in practice a cleaning and a very slight thinning of the branches, with some exceptions such as the Chinensis Mutabilis rose, which is a very vigorous rose.
Roses centifolia, muscosa, gallica, damasceana are non-re-flowering roses that bloom on the young branches of the previous year. Therefore, the dry, damaged, intersecting branches and those that are not very robust are removed. The most important pruning for these roses is after flowering.
Hybrid tea roses these roses must be drastically pruned, old, weak branches are removed, and in summer, after each flowering, the vegetation is lowered by about half, to obtain the next flowering after about 30 - 40 days.
Modern large-flowered climbing roses These vines are very vigorous. The branches that bloom are the lateral ones, which are produced on the 2 or 3-year-old branches; we will therefore proceed to eliminate the old exhausted ones, then the stems that have bloomed will be shortened, leaving 3 to 6 eyes. The new shoots will be folded to form a fan to prevent the lower part of the rose from being unguarded.
Roses must be watered regularly and especially in the first year of planting. Subsequently, watering will be carried out only to keep the soil fresh and according to the weather conditions (temperature, wind, precipitation).
The planting distances depend on the size of the plant and the speed with which you want to obtain a finished garden. As a rule, it ranges from 60 cm to 80 cm. For larger plants, it can reach up to one meter.
Powdery mildew or white sore
Severe disease of the rose, which occurs in both dry and humid climates, affects all air organs (leaves, stems, flowers). The affected parts become covered with a whitish felt and deform. Strong changes in temperature between day and night favor the development of the disease.
The disease can be very harmful. It manifests itself with leaf spots located between the veins, sometimes extended, initially yellow in color, then with a dry consistency in the center and dark brown on the periphery. It causes the affected leaves to fall off. All organs can be affected, in particular calyxes and leaf peduncles. Attacks of the disease are particularly virulent in spring and autumn.
Black spot or scab
It causes the appearance of spots of different diameters (i-3mm) of blackish-purple color. A plant is defoliated and weakened. Affected leaves curl up and fall off. Necrotic spots of variable shape, size, and color appear on the leaf petioles and young shoots.
PREVENTION AND FIGHT
The fight is carried out with an organic product both in prevention and during the attack, BIORAME 18, for sale on our site.
Aphids or green lice
Damage: they attack the apical parts of young shoots, buds and leaves in unfolding. They cause plant decay.
Fight in case of attack intervene with products based on imidacloprid, pymetrozine, thiacloprid. Thiametoxam, using the doses on the label.
Red spider mites or spider mites
Leaves dotted and with evident streaks that are initially light and then darker until they dry out. In the event of a strong attack, the affected parts are covered with a light cobweb.
It is advisable to intervene at the first symptoms or at the first detection of mobile forms under the leaves, using products based on abamectin, tebufenpirad, fenazaquin, extiazox, clofentezine, dicofil, ciexatin, also in mixture with each other at the doses on the label.
They attack the budding flowers and young leaves. On the affected parts, silver and brown spots form.
In case of strong infestation, intervene with products based on methiocarb, abamectin, spinosad.
Find useful products, all organic, in the "Garden items" section.
Cultivation Notes, Phytoclimatic Areas